Painting Instructions

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How to proceed...

Everyone paints their models in a different way. The following points correspond to my current approach to painting Air Raid 36/46 models and should serve as a guide.

Cleaning the model

The models still have a light layer of dust on them from the casting process. In order for the primer to adhere, the dust must be removed. It is best to use soapy water and an old toothbrush. Make sure that at the end you rinse off any remaining soapy water with clean water. Dry the models with a paper towel and from now on avoid touching them with your fingers as the skin contains grease. This can affect the adhesion of the primer.
It is best to use gloves, e.g. nitrile gloves.

Deburring, gluing, filling

The Air Raid 36/46 models have thanks to the high-quality production by Schilling figures usually very few burrs. These can be easily removed with a craft knife or scalpel. Surface unevenness can be smoothed out with fine 180 grit sandpaper. If you want the surface to be as smooth as possible afterwards, it is best to use grit 400 or 600. As a rule, however, this is not necessary.

Larger models such as medium bombers consist of several parts. If, for example, gaps or gaps remain when gluing the wings, these can be closed with putty, greenstuff or other filler. I can recommend the Plastic Putty from Vallejo. It is easy to dose with the narrow tip and can be applied with a spatula and a damp brush before drying.
Due to the high quality of the models, it is usually enough to simply use a little more superglue.

Optional: Modifications (drilling, sawing, etc.)

If you want to add a further level of detail to the models, this is a good time to drill holes for antennas or machine guns. Possible other changes to the metal model can now also be easily carried out.

A device from Proxxon or Dremel is suitable as a drill. Sometimes there are similar cheaper devices in discount stores, e.g. from Parkside, which are absolutely sufficient. The diameter of the drill obviously depends on the wire used. It is best to use HSS metal drills here. I can also only recommend shank drills, as drills without a shank cannot be clamped perfectly straight into the drill chuck and, given the small diameters, the drill tip will deflect. This means that precise drilling is not possible.

The places where drilling is to be carried out are marked, for example, with a sharp pencil. It must be ensured that the model and the hands are supported in a stable manner in order to be able to guide as precisely as possible. Please use safety glasses so that no parts hurt your eyes.
Be careful during the drilling process and set enough revolutions. Approximately a quarter to a third of the maximum power should be enough. Carefully lower the drill and move it back out of the drill hole a little (back and forth), as the 0.3mm drill bits quickly get stuck in the metal and break off. I can't always prevent that with my models.

Optional: Attaching antennas, machine guns, etc.

The brass wires from Albion Alloys with a thickness of 0.3 mm are very suitable for antennas and machine guns. Brass is relatively soft and therefore the risk of small pieces flying around when it is cut off is very low. In addition, brass is very easy to bend into the desired shape.
Use side cutters for shortening and pliers with smooth cheeks are recommended for holding and bending. Right angles are created by pressing the held wire with flat-nose pliers onto a smooth, hard surface.

Applying primer

Unlike plastic or resin models, it is difficult to find a primer that adheres well to metal models. Even products that are specifically intended for use on metal surfaces often provide poor adhesion. Unfortunately, after the primer has dried for a day or two, it often happens that the primer can be rubbed off without much effort. Another challenge is that it still holds when masking tape is used, which unfortunately then removes most of the primers that have previously shown good adhesion to metal.
Various tips where, for example, you have to use the masking tape first Sticking it to your hand so that the adhesive strength wears off etc. unfortunately didn't help.

The following primer from AK holds up relatively well with a drying time of at least one to two days. It doesn't smell, doesn't emit any toxic fumes and can also be dried indoors, for example on the radiator. I use it mixed with the airbrush in a ratio of about 1 part airbrush thinner to 2 parts primer. But it can also be applied with a brush. The advantage of the airbrush is that you can apply a very thin layer and even if you spray two layers, the details are retained perfectly. With a little practice, the right distance and a well-shaked can, you can of course also use a primer from a spray can.

When airbrushing, always use a suction system that leads the fumes etc. outside. I can recommend Wiltec, which also has good LED lighting built in and can be folded up for transport or storage.
With the airbrush I now use a large 0.45 mm nozzle for this - changing the needle and the Nozzle for this is worth it.

Applying base colors

The base colors can be applied with a brush or airbrush, with the airbrush providing a more even layer. However, you usually have to apply 2-3 coats so that the paint has sufficient coverage, as it cannot be sprayed in a thick consistency.
It is important to pay attention to the transition from the bottom to the top, as this depends on the type of painting and nationality etc. some aircraft may have special gradients.

For aircraft that are only monochrome on the top, such as green American or Japanese aircraft, you can achieve a beautiful effect using a color gradient. For example, you either have several shades of green or you put several drops of green on the wet palette and mix the green tones yourself. To do this, place a large drop of beige or yellow to the left of the basic color green and a large drop of brown or black to the right of green. Now add some of the lighter color to the green or vice versa and mix them carefully. You can control how bright the green should be. The same is done on the other side with the darker color to obtain a darker green.
When applying the colors, you can achieve shades or areas that are lighter than the basic tone. Here you have to experiment a bit and in the end you can achieve good color tones transitions.

Here are some examples:

Optional: Masking

For models with camouflage colors with hard edges, such as the German splinter camouflage pattern, it is worth masking off the pattern with masking tape before using the airbrush. If you generally want sharp transitions, e.g. from the bottom to the top, the masking tape helps a lot when using the airbrush. I didn't notice any differences in the masking tape itself. Definitely buy the cheapest one in the required width. I use Revell and one from a cheap Chinese manufacturer and I hardly see any difference. Even the color, the material and the adhesive strength seem to be the same.

If small pieces of paint and primer come off the model when you remove the masking tape and stick to it, that is very annoying, but the model does not automatically lost. These areas can usually be easily touched up with a brush. If you want to be on the safe side and don't have a reliable primer, you can apply a thin layer of glossy varnish with the airbrush before masking to prevent the paint from coming off with the tape.

Example using German splinter camouflage on a Do 17

I didn't take a photo of the first steps, the application of Vallejo Air RLM 65 Light Blue. The model was simply placed on its head and painted in 2-3 thin layers with the airbrush. I usually dilute the Vallejo Air colors approx. 1:1 with the Vallejo Thinner. In addition, I recommend adding the Flow Improver from Vallejo for the airbrush, approx. 2:10 and approx. 1:10 the retarder (drying delayer) into the airbrush and mixing well.

The second step, masking with I also didn't hold any masking tape so I could spray Vallejo Air RLM 71 Dark Green on the top. But the mixing ratio is the same as with RLM 65 light blue.

What you can now see in the photos is the masking with Revell masking tape 10mm, so I then applied the darker part of the camouflage with Vallejo Air RLM 70 black green can. Also the mixture mentioned above and again 2-3 layers so that it covers well. I often cut the 10mm wide masking tape into thinner strips with scissors so that it fits in narrow places. This band is also available in smaller widths. I now use masking tape in widths of 3mm, 6mm and 10mm.

Unfortunately, since I always get dust, I carefully brush it off the model with a large, soft brush. Especially when brushing or later when using glossy or matt varnish, you should make sure that there is no dust, fibers, etc. on the model before applying the next layer of varnish. If you hold the model against a dark background, you can easily see and remove any fibers etc.

Painting details (cockpit, exhaust, traces of soot, etc.)

I recommend using a fine brush here. The colors used must be diluted slightly if they are too thick. The Vallejo Air are generally all about the same thickness and can also be used with a brush for small things, corrections, etc. The other regular colors have very different viscosity, even within the same manufacturer and depending on the age of the color. It is generally recommended to put these so-called agitator balls, simple steel balls, into the bottles. This allows you to mix them effectively and if a regular color is too thick, I tip a little Airbrush Thinner into the paint bottle.

A wet palette is also very helpful for mixing and storing the colors. This is a kind of lunch box made of plastic with a foam or sponge on which parchment paper is placed on top. You can buy it ready-made or put it together yourself. The sponge is filled with water and the parchment paper on top remains moist. This means you can continue to use the paint for a few days without it drying out. In addition, you can easily mix colors together in stages, e.g. from yellow to red, so that in the middle there are several stages from yellow to orange to red.

First, the dark blue is taken and the windows are painted. There's a little something going over the edge, but we have to correct it anyway if we want it to look neat. In the end, all that's left of the dark blue is a border in the window.

Next comes the medium blue. This is used to paint an inner surface, leaving a thin edge of dark blue if possible. If you slip up, simply correct it.

Now comes light blue. Paint within the middle blue area in the upper half or upper third, assuming that this is where the most light comes through the panes.

You could leave the windows as is, but they would still be covered with the medium blue used previously. To do this, dilute distilled water to medium blue in a ratio of approximately 4:1 so that it becomes very transparent. It turns the light areas slightly bluish and sits like a wash at the edge.

Another example using a P-51

With the large cockpit window you can easily achieve color transitions using drybrushing or blending. Here, too, you have to practice and try things out, or mix more than 3 shades of blue yourself on the wet palette.

By chance I found a so-called brush soap that cost almost 5 euros. The description said something about curd soap. Since paint on my brushes often collects at the root or at the transition to the metal clamp, I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to take better care of the brushes. But 5 euros for a small container of curd soap? There are three bars of curd soap for less than 2 euros in the drugstore and they work great.

Details such as soot, rust and propeller caps etc. now follow.

Applying gloss varnish part 1

Basic color and details are applied. Now the entire model is sealed with a layer of glossy varnish so that the decals can lie as smoothly as possible on the surfaces in the next step. In addition, it is intended to reduce the problem with possible so-called “silvering” or “silvering”. A shiny edge remains on the decal after it has dried, which you want to avoid.

As a glossy varnish, I use one from AK and spray it on using an airbrush with a 0.45 mm nozzle. Allow the glossy varnish to dry on the model for at least a day, or half a day with heating. It has hardened sufficiently when the model no longer feels slightly sticky.

Applying decals

As for decals, I can absolutely recommend the ones from Sieben Schwaben Spiele. They are very detailed, come off the backing paper within a few seconds in water and are very thin, so they can be easily pressed into recesses. They are also very cheap and you always get enough emblems to equip several aircraft with them.

The decals are cut out as narrowly as possible so that little edge is left. You hold it in clean water with tweezers for 10-20 seconds and it is best to wet the index finger of your other hand a little. Then the decal is removed from the water and placed on the index finger with the paper side up. You can now use the tweezers to push away the backing paper and the decal will then float on your finger with the back facing up. Here you can carefully pick it up again with the tweezers and move it to the desired location.
If a decal curls up, you can first hold it directly against the model with your finger and then carefully push it over to it with the tweezers. If a decal becomes completely twisted or bent, you can put it back in the water and try to unroll it again. This can require a lot of patience.
If something slips when you press it and the water has already been absorbed, simply add a little water to the decal again with a brush and you can carefully position it again.

I use cotton swabs to press it on. However, you have to be careful that no cotton fibers get stuck in the decal. The cleaner you work here, the lower the risk that a silvery edge will remain on the decal after drying. If that happens, you can touch up with paint before the final phase.

You need a “Decal Softener” for the decals from Sieben Schwaben Spiele not, because they are so thin that you can press them into the recesses without much effort. If you would like to try a softener, I would personally try the water-based one from Vallejo, as most other products are harmful softeners.

The decals should be allowed to dry on the model for at least half a day, and preferably a whole day . A place on the heater can speed this up.

Applying gloss varnish part 2

Now another layer of gloss varnish is applied, which will protect the model from the following enamel wash and thinner. In this phase the paint must harden very well so as not to be damaged by the thinner etc. To be on the safe side, a drying time of at least one day is recommended.

Applying enamel wash

I used to use acrylic washes, but they dry very quickly and you have to work with them very carefully. You also have to make smaller corrections again and again. Overall, this part took a lot of time.
In plastic model making, however, enamel washes are used, which are much more time-saving to use and, above all, achieve a very realistic effect. The disadvantage is that they contain solvents and smell strong. Therefore only use it in the fresh air or with a mask and an exhaust system so that the toxic fumes are carried to the outside.
There are certainly also techniques with means such as retarders or drying retardants to be able to carry out such work with acrylic washes, but currently It works very well with the Enamel Washes.

I use AK Wash Neutral Gray for all models, no matter what color and whether top or bottom. The model is painted completely top and bottom with the wash. Wait about 5 minutes for the wash to dry.

It is very practical that the models with the wash applied can simply stand for 30 minutes without having to go straight to the next step with dilution. I haven't tried longer times yet.
Now comes the step that is not possible with acrylic washes.

Removing wash with thinner

After the model has been completely soaked from top to bottom, the Enamel Wash is carefully removed using thinner where you still want to see some of the painting. The dried acrylic gloss varnish is not dissolved by the thinner and protects everything underneath.
In places where little wash is removed, dirty-looking residue remains that could represent an oil leak or other contamination. After all, you want the recesses to be dark. It is important that you always pull off in the direction of the wind, i.e. from bow to stern. To avoid removing the wash from grooves in this direction, you can also walk diagonally across the surface.
Toilet paper and cotton swabs are suitable for removing. However, you have to pay particular attention to the loosening cotton fibers, which tend to stick to the model.

I have had good experiences with the “Odorless Thinner” from AK. Other means will probably also work, but they shouldn't be aggressive. Otherwise you would destroy the painting and can clean the model in acetone. “Odorless” does not mean that no toxic fumes are released - so always ventilate well!

Applying matte varnish

Finally, matt varnish is applied. This makes a big difference with such small models and makes them look much better. Whether the paint or surface of the aircraft was glossy in reality hardly matters compared to how good the model looks in matt afterwards. Here I can use the ultra matt varnish from PK-PRO absolutely recommend. Can be brushed or sprayed diluted with an airbrush. Ratio of airbrush thinner and matt varnish approx. 1:1 and also spray on with a large nozzle.

Finally, a few impressions of models that were made in the manner described above.

I'm glad if the instructions could help. If you have any comments or would like to know something in more detail, please send me an email to info@airraid-game.de or on Facebook write. I also publish pictures of painted models there from time to time. Further articles are planned.


Greetings
Markus